France is often distilled down to a pretty picture: the Eiffel Tower illuminated against the night sky, a field of lavender in Provence, or an extravagant château reflected in the still water of the Loire River. While France lives up to its stereotypes, providing the best in fine wine, strong cheese, and that certain romantic je ne sais quoi, it also goes beyond these clichés. Whether it’s a nine-course meal in one of Lyon’s famous restaurants, a hike to a hidden waterfall in the Pyrénées, or a stroll through one of Paris’s less frequented parks, something in France is bound to leave you breathless. Look beyond the postcard images, and France will never fail to surprise you.
It may take a lot of patience and time to see all the châteaux in the Loire Valley, but it's certainly possible for those up to the challenge. Some determined chateau-crawlers spend hours traveling by bike or car, but more intrepid souls can save themselves the long haul and visit the chateaux via hot air balloon. From the air, all parts of the estates can be fully appreciated, from the gardens' exquisite patterns to the buildings' turrets and facades.
Total excursion time is 3½hr., and actual flight time approximates 1hr. Balloons take off in the early morning, a few minutes after sunrise, and in the evening before sunset. As they prepare for departure, patrons savor the anticipation (and a complimentary champagne toast) before embarking on their once-in-a-lifetime adventure. For the most fearless travelers, the romance of a hot air balloon may seem too tame. Luckily, some companies also offer helicopter tours of the valley or opportunities to skydive onto the lawns of Chambord or Cheverny.
For hot air balloons, contact France Montgolfières, 24 r. Nationale, 41400 Montrichard. (02 54 32 20 48; www.franceballoons.com. €250.) For helicopters, contact Jet Systems, Aérodrome d'Amboise, 37150 Dierre. (02 47 30 20 21; www.jet-systems.fr. €57-229.)
France pumps out vast quantities of wine for unbeatable prices, but
even that €4 bottle from the supermarket won't seem like such a great
deal after a visit to Antibes's Cave Raymond. Behind a classy
storefront and expensive bottles of local pastis, the owners keep three
enormous vats of red, white, and rosé wine. From these metal barrels,
frugal customers use a garden hose to transfer the store's wine into
their own empty bottles for a mere €1.80 per liter. If you're worried
about the quality of the wine, you can taste it before buying.
In order to conserve glass, the cave requires its patrons to use a specific wine bottle decorated with elevated glass stars. First-time customers can look for the bottle at the supermarket or buy one from the cave for an extra ^0.30. Thriftier wine lovers can bring in any sort of glass container (even Perrier bottles are approved), and the most desperate sorts can fill a plastic water bottle. (Beware: the taste of plastic can soak into the wine!)
Cave Raymond has been emptying its vats to customers for over 60 years. Unfortunately, this once-common practice is becoming increasingly rare, so be sure to fill your bottles while you can. (6 av. Guillabert. Open M-F 9am-noon and 3:30-7pm, Sa 9am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.)
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