Thailand

Perhaps the most ubiquitous of all of Thailand's attractions are the Padong long-necked women. It is impossible to leave Bangkok without seeing them on postcards or hearing stories about them. In reality, however, the total number of Padong is only about 7000, out of which a mere 300 live in Thailand, in Mae Hong Son Province.

The women are famous for the brass coils they wear around their necks. The coils—weighing 5kg or more—push down the woman's collarbone, which creates the illusion of a very long neck. Research shows that Padong women's necks are actually of normal size; if the brass coils were removed, the neck would revert from its elongated state.

Padong legend holds that in their golden age, a pack of tigers attacked a village and bit several tribal members on the neck, killing them. This so worried the village leader that he forced girls and unmarried women to wear neck coils. Originally, the coils were made of gold, but as that became too expensive, brass was substituted. Girls receive their first set of coils at age five , and three more are added every three years until the girl is 25 or is married. The tradition began dying out in Myanmar, but once groups fled to Thailand, entrepreneurs seized on the women as a tourist gold mine.

The Padong tourist villages are quite controversial, as critics see them as exploitative. Proponents of the coils counter that the village has increased income. The biggest and most touristed of the Padong villages is Nai Soi, near Mae Hong Son. It is clear to anyone who has been there that the women do not lead an authentic village life. Instead, they pose for pictures, superficially play together in the river, and weave baskets for tourist souvenirs. Contradicting their detractors, the Padong women themselves say that they don't mind the photographs and that life in Thailand is much better than in Myanmar.

Indeed, the Padong don't have much more appealing alternatives. The Padong could live in intense poverty in Myanmar, under an oppressive government that persecutes them. They could flee to Thailand, perform taxing farm labor, and lead a life of bare subsistence. Or they could establish tourist villages in Thailand, where they strive to please photographers all day, making more money than by traditional methods. While the tourist village is not a perfect way of life for the Padong, it surpasses their next best option.

If you are interested in seeing the Padong, go to Hoy Sen Thao, Huay Ma Khen Som, or Noi Soi—all in Mae Hong Son Province. All of the villages can be reached by private transportation. The entrance fee is 250? some of which goes directly to villagers. Tour companies charge much more.

The smile is one of the most undisputable symbols of traditional Thai hospitality that greets travelers clear across the country. But Thai good spirit does not end with the smile; indeed, there exists a firmly established cultural ethos of good food, good friends, and good times in general prevailing across the entire country. This ubiquitous national style is known as "Sabai Sabai Sanuk," which loosely translated means "happy happy-joy joy," or in the unforgettable lyrics of Bobby McFarin, "don't worry, be happy."

Sabai Sabai Sanuk can best be felt in evenings, as the lights of the night bazaars glow and families hit the streets to browse the shops and share a meal. The spirit of Sabai Sabai Sanuk is even more palpable in vacation hotspots around the country; restaurants have a number of gargantuan tables reserved for large parties, and hotels have equally large rooms with up to 10 beds. For Thais, big group activities are the epitome of good times.

Occasionally you'll hear "mai sanuk" on the streets—it means "no fun at all." This is a relatively serious claim for Thais, and attempts will be made to hastily rectify any unfun situation into a fun one! Thus, when frustrated with the occasional moments of travel, rather than getting angry, try smiling and laughing—this language is clear in the land of fun and Sabai Sabai Sanuk.

Part of what makes it difficult to reproduce authentic Thai cuisine at home is the abundance of herbs used in curries and stir fries that are largely unavailable in the West. Here is a sampling of the unique flavors of Thai cuisine:

Lemon Grass (ta krai): one of the most common herbs in Thai cuisine. Tall blades of lemongrass resemble a cross between grass and scallions and add a distinctive, sour taste to soups and curries, most notably tom yum gun, the famous spicy and sour soup.

Basil: horapa, or sweet basil, is most similar to the basil found in the West and can be eaten raw or used for flavoring. Used in cooking, ga prow (holy basil) has a distinctive flavor. Mang lug (lemon-scented basil) has a peppery taste; its seeds turn gelatinous in water and are similar to soy milk and iced desserts in flavor and texture.

Keffir Lime (ma krut): a round, green fruit with bumpy skin that's larger than the common lime. Its rind and leaves are used in curries and soups.

Siam Ginger (galangal): a brown root used in curry pastes and soups. Uncooked, it has a notably strong taste. Common ginger is a poor substitute for its fragrant flavor.

Tumeric (khamin): used for coloring. Its shape and taste resemble ginger, but when chopped, this bright orange root is reminiscent of a carrot.